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← Back to Tools All Machining Tech tools   Back Lathe Measuring and Inspection Milling Filing and deburring   Back Laser engraving 3D Printing My HBM 250 lathe A couple of years ago I decided to invest in a lathe. I had some projects (probably more excuses than… MAKING A HARDWARE ORGANIZER CABINET I used to have all my bolts in one large box. It was fine when I only had imperial bolts… YET ANOTHER HARBOR FREIGHT BLAST CABINET – PT1 I’ve had this thing for 4 or 5 years now and it wasn’t until a few weeks ago that I… YOU SHOULD’VE SEEN THE GREEN ON MY FACE Hi there, long time no see.  Lots of stuff happening in the last two weeks. I managed to finish what… GETTING THE ENGINE READY FOR THE 850 MINI Since I’ve got nothing better to do, I’ve been out playing with some rockers Now I don’t want to disappoint… 4 SYNCHRO GEARBOX FOR THE 850 MINI The so called 4 synchro gearbox was introduced in the Autumn of 1968 and that was a significant upgrade to… MODIFYING THE CYLINDER HEAD FOR THE 850 MINI A naturally aspirated engine, like the A-series, is only as efficient as the air and fuel it can burn to… 850 MINI – SHORT BLOCK FINAL BUILD After careful preparation of each individual short block component, the final assembly was fairly quick and straight forward. This type… SHORT BLOCK PREPARATION FOR THE 850 MINI Two years into the production of the Mini, the 1961 850cc engine is still considered a very early engine where… Load More End of Content.

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← Back to Tools HSS-Co8 parting blade 3/32 (P2) Categories: Lathe, Machining Thinner cutting edge & thicker top edge design give these rectangular blades a T-shape profile that guides chips away from the cut & reduces friction for fast cutting. View on Amazon Additional information: Material HSS-Co8 Size (inches) 3/32 x 1/2 x 4 1/2 NBR WORKS REVIEW Parting off on the lathe used to be a painful operation for me. The purchase of this blade triggered me to make a tool holder for it (spring type) and then spend a good number of hours practicing. The combination of the blade and the tool holder was excellent, and all the practicing gave me the confidence needed for the operation. Today I use this tool mostly to part off soft materials (aluminum, brass, mild steel) which helps the tip to remain sharp for a longer period of time. In case you want to check the tool holder build and the first successful operations, here’s the video.  Related Mitutoyo 0.0005″ dial test indicator Noga dial indicator stand Dasqua IP54 digital caliper Dasqua granite comparator stand

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MAKING A HARDWARE ORGANIZER CABINET I used to have all my bolts in one large box. It was fine when I only had imperial bolts for my Mini, and I knew where all of them belonged, but then I started to work on some metric stuff, and a few years later, it started to get confusing. At one point, I began to find wood and drywall screws in there as well. It was a clear sign something had to change because… there were more boxes of nuts, washers, circlips, bearings and of course, the forbidden random. All had the same evolution. If you’re reading this, I’m sure you have a few too. Around that time, I was given a couple of used organizers with plastic drawers. They were dirty, so I washed them, 3D printed some dividers and started an organization system. I was able to sort all the metric hardware, which was pretty good… until I had some more that didn’t fit. I was also moving those organizers from place to place as I didn’t have a permanent spot for them. Well, enough of that. I was spending too much time looking for stuff I knew I had but couldn’t find, so I decided to make a cabinet where I could have an organizing system that actually worked. I had stored some 20mm MDF boards that looked perfect candidates for this cabinet. They were for a project that didn’t happen, so I could use the space they were taking. This forced me to decide the cabinet would be made out of 20mm MDF. Next, I laid down the stuff I wanted to store in the cabinet. All bolts, nuts and washers should be organized in individual containers, but I also wanted space for bigger items. I wanted to have some drawers. I was looking online for local second-hand desk drawers, but they were all a little bit expensive, so much so that a new nightstand was cheaper. And whiter too. I ended up buying one, which became the basis for the cabinet design. The nightstand is 50x50cm, has four large sliding drawers, plus a solid top on which I could build up more vertical storage space (the limit being the top of the room’s door frame). The small footprint was just what I was looking for – we all know how vital floor space is in a home workshop. I wasn’t sure how to organize the vertical storage, so I thought having limits and defining the final dimensions would help me figure that out. I bought the two side panels and cut the top and bottom from my old boards. With this, the frame around the nightstand was complete. But the whole thing was getting very heavy at this point, so adding some wheels felt like the right thing to do for two reasons: first, I could move it; second, the distance between the MDF and the floor is only beneficial in case the floor gets wet or humid (MDF does not like moisture). Plus, it’s just easier to keep clean. For the vertical storage, I had three organizer modules with six drawers each; that’s 18 drawers already at full capacity. I looked up online and found the exact same modules still available for sale, so I bought another one with shallow drawers. The idea was to stack them just as long as I could look into the first row of drawers. That worked great. What also worked well was an offer of a few stackable gummy bear containers of the size I needed to take the space left at the side of the organizers. But while that was going well, the whole cabinet felt flimsy. Not only the cabinet itself, which was too high with no reinforcement in the middle, but also the stackable towers felt unstable. I was hoping a 3mm backboard would make it more rigid for the cabinet, but I started to feel unsure about it. Since I still had some MDF left, I added some shelves to reinforce the structure and break the organizers stacking in half. Then, when I started taking the dimensions for the backboard, I realized I had lots of wasted space behind the organizers. And that’s when it hit me. 3D printed tool to create and align dowel pin holes for the shelves I COULD DUPLICATE THE STORAGE BY MAKING THIS A TWO-FRONT CABINET! Instead of having a backboard, I could get six more organizers and some gummy bear containers and duplicate the storage. So I did just that. Actually, I couldn’t get enough gummy bear containers, so I had to create a few smaller shelves in that place.  Since the backboard had been deleted, to help reinforce the frame and add some extra room above the organizers, an extra shelf was added. That extra compartment was divided into two: one for sandpaper and another one for tape rolls. This was my first wood project (does MDF count as wood?). The design-as-I-go approach was probably not the best, but in this case, it worked well and I think it was because I had all boundaries defined early in the process. All I had to do was to make the most out of that confined space.   After gluing the boards and adding the screws, I was surprised to see how solid the cabinet became. I mainly used 4mm, 80mm long drywall screws, pre-drilled to screw core size and tighten “just enough”. That way, I managed to avoid any splits in the MDF edges.  I think that 20mm MDF might have been too much; maybe 16mm would be just as good and lighter. This thing is very heavy! As for waste, I didn’t waste too much MDF, only one of the top doors because at first, I wanted to have the hinges on the top, but they couldn’t take the weight of the door, and it would fall off. I did look into proper hinge systems for that, but they take up too much space. I just changed to

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